A
Acrylic ruler: A ruler of thick, clear plastic used to make straight cuts with a rotary cutter. Available in a variety of sizes and shapes.
Acrylic template: Thick, durable plastic pattern used to trace and/or cut around. Available commercially in a variety of shapes and patterns. Can be used with a rotary cutter.
Allover quilting: Stitching that covers the entire quilt without regard for block shapes or fabric design. Can be quilted from either the quilt top or the back side.
Alternate blocks: Plain, pieced, or appliquéd blocks used between a quilt’s primary blocks. Also called alternate squares or setting squares.
Analogous colors: Neighbors on the color wheel.
Appliqué sequence order: See “Stitching sequence.”
Appliqué template: A pattern used to trace appliqué shapes onto fabric.
Applique: A technique where fabric shapes are cut and sewn onto a fabric block or quilt top. Typically, a fusible material is ironed to the wrong side of a shape, and then ironed to the background fabric. There are many types of applique: Needle turned: this involves hand work where you use a needle to turn edge under and then hand stitch in place. Raw edge applique: technique used to fuse your shape to fabric, then use a decorative stitch to adhere to quilt block. Applique is used to embellish or create interest to a block or quilt.
Asymmetry: When one-half of an image or block does not mirror the opposite half, the image is asymmetric.
Awl: A tool typically used in leather making to create holes. Can be used in quilting to pierce templates for marking points.
B
Background quilting: Stitching in open interior spaces, such as in setting squares. Squares, diamonds, clamshells, or other small regular shapes are commonly used as background quilting. The closely spaced lines tend to flatten the area being quilted, creating a low-relief, textured appearance. Also called filler quilting.
Backing: A quilt consists of three layers. Quilt top is either pieced or a single piece of fabric. The next layer is batting. The bottom layer of a quilt is a piece of fabric that is generally 4 inches longer and wider on all sides, this allows for quilting. For example, if quilt top measures 60×60, backing and batting should measure at least 68×68. Backing fabric can be a single piece of extra wide backing fabric or a fabric of your choice which will be sewn together to the size needed. Some quilters like to piece their entire backing with scraps of fabric.
Backstitch loop knot: Used in hand piecing to end a line of sewing. Can be made with one or two loops.
Backstitch: A stitch used to secure the stitch at the beginning and end of a seam by stitching 2 to 4 stitches forward, 2- 4 stitches back and then proceeding with your seam. This technique is done to secure the seam and ensure it does not pull apart during piecing or quilting of quilt.
Backstitch: The process of stitching over one or two stitches to secure them. Can be done by hand or by reverse stitching on a sewing machine. Also, a hand embroidery stitch.
Bargello: A quilt style identified by peaks and valleys created from squares of fabric that are sewn in strips, then cut and offset before joining the strips again.
Barn raising set: A pattern created when Log Cabin blocks are placed so the lights and darks radiate from the quilt center.
Basic sewing kit: Key components for quilting that may be requested on a class supply list. The contents include scissors, needles, and thread. Also called BSK.
Basting spray: Adhesive available in a spray can that may be used to hold the layers of a quilt together instead of thread- or pin-basting.
Basting stitch: A large, loose stitch used to hold together layers of fabric or fabric and batting. Basting stitches are usually removed after the layers are permanently joined.
Basting: Long stitches used to temporarily hold fabric in place, can be done by hand or by machine. It is also used to hold all three layers (quilt top, batting and backing) in place when ready for quilting. It is not necessary to secure thread knots on either ends of the stitching, as it is merely a way to ensure that your project stays secure and does not shift. These stitches can be removed once quilting is complete.
Batting: A product used between the quilt top and quilt backing. Batting is used for bed quilts, wall hangings, quilted clothing and home décor. Batting is also referred to as Wadding. It is generally made from cotton, cotton/polyester blend, bamboo, wool, or bamboo/cotton blend. There are two types of batting: with scrim and without scrim.
Beading: The process of adding beads to the surface of a quilt.
Bearding: Batting fibers that poke through to the top of the quilt during the quilting process are undesirable. This is caused by bad batting and will create this effect on front and back of quilt. Bearding happens when fibers in your batting pull apart and migrate through the fabric fibers of your quilt. You will most often notice this after a quilt is first washed. This is why it is important to choose good quality batting. Also called fiber migration.
Betweens: Short, fine needles used for hand piecing, hand quilting, appliqué, and sewing on binding.
Bias bars: Purchased metal or heat-resistant plastic bars in varying widths that can be used to make bias stems.
Bias: The length or width of woven fabric is considered straight grain, there is no stretch when fabric is on the straight of grain. When you cut diagonally at 45-degree angle across the straight grain, you will be on bias. When cutting on the Bias you will always have a greater amount of stretch.
Bias binding: Binding strips cut on the true bias grain, resulting in a binding that can be easily positioned around curved edges. When stripe fabrics are cut on the bias, the result is a “barber pole” effect.
Bias seam: When bias edges of fabric are sewn together, a bias seam results. This seam can be easily stretched and distorted and must be handled with care.
Bias stems: Fabric strips cut on the bias grain so that they are flexible enough to bend without wrinkles or puckers when making floral stems or vines for appliqué.
Bias strips: Long, thin pieces of fabric cut on the bias grain.
Bias tape: Pre-made strips of fabric in various sizes that are cut diagonally across the grain to give the fabric some movement so it will turn curves nicely. Used for binding a quilt.
Big stitch: A large, evenly-spaced hand quilting stitch used to create a folk-art appearance. Also called a utility stitch.
Binding foot: A specialty foot that can be attached to the machine for making and sewing binding.
Binding: Finishing of the quilt. Long, thin fabric strips that are attached to the raw edges of a quilt.
Binding tape: The edge of the quilt is bound with binding tape. You can buy this or make your own. The binding of the quilt is what finishes it beautifully and the binding does not have to be cut on the bias. There is a special section devoted to binding the quilt in this article. The binding needs to be wide enough to encase all three layers of the quilt to neaten the edge.
Blanket stitch: A decorative machine or hand stitch used to outline appliqué pieces. Also called buttonhole stitch.
Bleeding: When color or dyes from one fabric transfers to another during washing. This is due to hand dyes or color saturated fabrics losing their dyes when they are wet. Most commonly seen when washing vividly colored fabrics, particularly purples and reds. Always best to wash colors separately before cutting and piecing.
Blind hemstitch: A machine stitch used to secure appliqué pieces for mock hand appliqué. The machine takes two or three straight stitches, then a zigzag stitch.
Block mock-up: A sample of a block made by cutting the shapes from the desired fabric and affixing them to a surface. Creating mock-up blocks allows the quilter to see how fabrics will work together when cut into smaller pieces.
Block: The basic unit, usually square and often repeated, from which many quilts are composed. Blocks may be pieced, appliquéd, or solid.
Blocking: When a block is not square, a process that requires wetting and pressing fabric to a proper square block. This is also done using steam to help stretch portions of your block to match other blocks.
Blocks: The unit that is designed for a quilt. Generally, there will be many blocks in a quilt. A quilt block can be a single piece of fabric cut with a rotary cutter into a square or a block that has been pieced using many pieces of fabric and sewn together using ¼ inch seam allowance.
Bobbin case finger: The part of the bobbin case that projects upward in some machines. It contains a hole for threading the bobbin thread through to increase the lower thread tension.
Bobbin case: The portion of the sewing machine that holds the bobbin. Bobbin cases may be fixed or removable, depending on machine style and manufacturer.
Bobbin work: Winding thick decorative threads that won’t fit through the machine needle onto the bobbin, then stitching from the quilt back so the bobbin thread appears on the quilt front.
Bobbin-fill thread: A lightweight thread used in the bobbin for machine embroidery, machine appliqué, or decorative stitching. Also called lingerie thread.
Bonded batting: Batting that has been chemically processed using heat or resin to combine the fibers.
Border prints: Contained fabric designs that run lengthwise on the fabric bolt. Often these prints are cut apart and used as a quilt border.
Borders: Strips of fabric that frame the edges of the quilt. You can have one or many borders in a quilt top. You may also have borders surrounding your quilt blocks, also known as sashing, or as part of quilt block design.
Broderie perse: A technique in which individual motifs are cut from one fabric and applied to another fabric foundation.
BSK: See “Basic sewing kit.”
Bugle beads: Long, thin beads sometimes added to a quilt top for embellishment.
Burr: A nick or rough area on a needle that may snag fabric.
Butted corners: Term used when border pieces meet at a 90° angle or when binding pieces overlap in the corner at a 90° angle, rather than being mitered.
Buttonhole stitch: See “Blanket stitch.”
C
Center point: The visual or actual center of a block where units come together.
Center-intersecting blocks: Block designs that have multiple pieces meeting in the center. Special piecing techniques are needed to prevent excess bulk or warping at the block’s center.
Chain Piecing: This technique is used when sewing many quilt pieces that are identical. Example: sewing 144 – 2-inch squares together. Feed these pieces through your machine, right sides together, sewing consecutively without cutting thread, also called fast feed. Cut thread later when all units have been sewn together.
Chain stitch: An embroidery stitch that appears to be a series of chain links.
Channel stitching: Parallel rows of straight-line quilting going in one direction across a quilt top.
Charm Pack: A variety of a fabric line cut into 5″ squares. Charm packs are sold in many quilt shops, and are packaged by numerous fabric retailers. Number in bundles can vary among manufacturers.
Chenille needle: A long, oval-eye needle used for heavyweight thread, embroidery, and tying quilts.
Chevron stitch: A zigzag-type embroidery stitch used for decorative embellishment.
Color retention: A fabric’s ability to retain its color when it is washed.
Color wheel: Device used to see the relationships of primary, secondary, and tertiary colors and the tints and shades of each.
Color-wash quilt: See “Watercolor quilt.”
Complementary colors: Opposites on the color wheel, which appear brighter when they are used together.
Continuous bias binding technique: A method of marking, sewing, and cutting a square of fabric so as to transform it into one long bias strip.
Continuous line quilting: A pattern in quilting in which the design line continues from start to finish so you don’t have multiple stops and starts.
Continuous sashing: Strips of fabric that separate entire rows either vertically or horizontally.
Contrast: The differences between fabric values, which are described as light, medium, or dark. Contrast clarifies design and makes depth apparent.
Conversation print: See “Novelty print.”
Cording foot: A specialty sewing machine foot that has a deep groove on the bottom to accommodate cording or piping.
Corner matching points: Marks made on templates and pattern pieces indicating where corners come together. Especially important when hand-piecing, as the seam allowances are unstitched.
Corner square: A square that is sewn to the ends of the top and bottom borders before added to a quilt. Side borders will be sewn to the quilt first.
Corner triangle: The triangles set in the corners of a quilt that is set on “Point.” These are half square triangles, meaning the straight of grain is on the outer edges of the triangle.
Cornerstones: A name given to the small blocks that join sashing strips together surrounding a block or blocks in a quilt top.
Couching: A process of stitching thick threads, ribbons, beads, and other items to a quilt surface.
Covered cording: A trim or binding made by covering cording with fabric. Also called piping.
Crazy quilting: A type of quilting popularized in Victorian times. Crazy quilting is identified by odd-shape pieces of fabric usually sewn onto a foundation and embellished with fancy embroidery, ribbons, and beading. Silk, velvet, cotton, and other fine fabrics are typically used in crazy quilting.
Crocking: The transfer of color from one fabric to another, caused by the friction of fabrics rubbing against one another during handling or washing.
Crosshatch: See “Grid quilting.”
Cross-stitch: A decorative embroidery stitch that appears as a series of Xs.
Crosswise grain (cross grain): The threads running perpendicular to the selvage across the width of a woven fabric.
Curve, concave: A curve that bows inward.
Curve, convex: A curve that bows outward.
Curved rulers and templates: Made of acrylic plastic, these commercial products make it easier to rotary-cut intricate, curved pieces.
Cutting mat: Surface used for rotary cutting that protects the tabletop and keeps the fabric from shifting while cutting. Often mats are labeled as self-healing, meaning the blade does not leave slash marks or grooves in the surface even after repeated usage.
D
Darner (darning needle): A needle with a long, narrow eye. Used for basting, tying, or weaving.
Darning foot: An open-toe sewing machine foot that is used for free-motion quilting.
Design wall/surface: A vertical surface used to position and view fabric choices to see how they might appear in a quilt.
Diagonal set: A style of quilt top where the blocks are set “on point” in diagonal rows.
Die-cutting: A time-saving alternative to rotary cutting. Layers of fabric are centered over a custom-shape die blade, covered with a cutting mat, and rolled through a die-cutting machine.
Difficult to needle: The ease (or lack thereof) with which the needle glides through fabric.
Directional borders: Borders that have designs running in a particular sequence or order.
Directional clipping: Snipping seams on the bias to prevent raveling of fabric edges, such as in appliqué.
Directional pressing: Ironing seams in a designated direction to limit bulk in certain areas of a block. Commonly used in diamonds and other center-intersecting blocks.
Directional stitching: Sewing seams in a designated direction when piecing to prevent puckering. Commonly used in sewing diamonds and other center-intersecting blocks.
Dog-ears: Long points that extend beyond the seam allowance, block edge, or quilt top edge after the pieces are stitched together. Usually trimmed off to make aligning subsequent pieces easier.
Double- or triple-needle: Specialty sewing machine needles with two or three needles hooked together at the shank. Can be used for decorative stitching.
Double-appliqué method: Finished-edge appliqué pieces created by facing them with a lightweight interfacing prior to stitching them to a foundation fabric.
Double-fold binding: Binding made from a fabric strip that is folded in half before being attached to the quilt. Also called French-fold binding.
Drag: Caused by the weight of the quilt pulling while sewing. Drag can result in distortion of a finished quilt or uneven quilting stitches.
Drape: This is the way a quilt will feel or hang after it is quilted. The batting choice, as well as how much quilting is done, will determine how a quilt will drape. Higher quality batting is able to take more stitches and still retain a soft, cozy feel, whereas cheaper battings will turn to a stiffer feel.
Drop: The part of a quilt that extends over the edge of the mattress.
E
Ease: Distributing the fabric evenly while long arm quilting so that the quilt lies flat.
Easing: The process of working in extra fabric where two pieces do not align precisely, especially when sewing curves.
Echo quilting: Echo or Shadow quilting is a technique where quilting is done around an outline of an applique piece on a quilt top or around a design or pattern. Then the quilting is echoed again and again around the previously stitched line. Continue to do this until block is filled or desired effect is achieved.
Embellishment: The process of adding decorative items or stitches to a quilt top. May include buttons, beads, heavyweight threads, or charms.
Embroidery: A type of embellishment or stitchery that can be created by hand or machine using a variety of threads.
English paper piecing: Technique of stabilizing fabric over a paper template. Frequently used for designs with set-in corners such as the hexagon shape. See also “Grandmother’s Flower Garden.”
Equilateral triangles: A triangle in which all three angles measure 60°. Six equilateral triangles combine to create a hexagon.
Ergonomics: The study of work space design to prevent injury.
Even-feed foot: See “Walking foot.”
Extra-fine pins: Pins with a thinner shaft than standard pins, thus leaving smaller holes in fabric.
F
Fat Eighth: A typical 1/8 yard of fabric is 4 ½” x 42. A fat eight is 9” x 21”. It produces a “fatter” square piece of fabric, providing more options for use.
Fat Quarter: A typical 1/4 yard of fabric is 9” x 44”. A fat quarter is 18″x22.” It produces a “fatter” square piece of fabric, providing more options for use.
Featherstitch: A decorative embroidery stitch.
Feed dogs: Teeth like mechanisms that sits below the presser foot of a sewing machine and move fabric through the machine as you stitch. Feed dogs also help control stitch length. If you drop your feed dogs, you can achieve free motion quilting.
Felted wool: Wool fabric which has been machine-washed and dried to create a napped, no-fray material.
Filler quilting: See “Background quilting.”
Filler triangles: See “Setting triangles.”
Finger-press: The process of pressing a small seam using a finger and pressure. Also called finger-crease.
Finishes: Created by mechanical or chemical processes used in fabric manufacturing that result in different surface characteristics, from a sheen to a nap. Finishes can be permanent or temporary and may have varying degrees of durability (ability to withstand washings).
Flannel: A 100% cotton fabric that has a brushed, napped surface.
Flat flower pins: Pins with a unique flower-shape head. The long shaft makes these pins easy to grab and helps them stay in fabric.
Floating blocks: A look achieved by cutting side and corner setting pieces large enough that the block edges in the quilt center do not touch the border.
Flying geese unit: A common unit in quilt making. It is identified by its rectangular shape created with a large 90° triangle in the center and two small 90° triangles on each side.
Foundation piecing: A method of sewing together fabric pieces on the reverse side of a paper pattern or foundation fabric. Sometimes preferred for joining very small or irregularly-shaped fabric pieces.
Four-Patch: A block or unit comprised of four equal-size squares sewn in two horizontal rows, often with alternating color placement.
Framed block: A block with fabric strips around it that give it the appearance of being framed. This technique can be used to unify blocks or adjust block size.
Free motion quilting: A process requiring a free motion quilting, darning or hopping foot. Requires you to drop your feed dogs so you can move fabric freely in all directions. Special gloves marketed for free motion quilting can help in controlling the fabric by providing extra grip.
Free-motion embroidery: Machine embroidery done with the feed dogs disengaged and using a darning presser foot so the quilt can be moved freely on the machine bed in any direction.
Free-motion quilting: A process of quilting done with the feed dogs disengaged and using a darning presser foot so the quilt can be moved freely on the machine bed in any direction.
Freezer paper: Paper commonly available at grocery stores that can be used to make appliqué patterns. The shiny coating on one side temporarily adheres to fabric when pressed with a warm iron.
French knot: A decorative embroidery stitch formed by wrapping thread around the needle.
French-fold binding: See “Double-fold binding.”
Fusible web: A paper-backed adhesive that can be ironed to the back of fabric that is then cut into shapes. These fused shapes are adhered to a background fabric by pressing them with a warm iron. Frequently used in appliqué projects.
Fussy cutting: Isolating and cutting out a specific print or motif from a piece of fabric.
G
Gathering stitch: A long running stitch that can be pulled to draw up the fabric.
Glass-head pins: Pins with a glass head that won’t melt when pressed.
Glazing: Treating thread and fabric with starches and special chemicals, as well as polishing, to create a high luster.
Grain (grain line, on grain, or grain perfect): Reference to the lengthwise or crosswise threads in a woven fabric.
Grandmother’s flower garden: A traditional quilt design created entirely from joining hexagon shapes. See also “English paper piecing.”
Greige goods: Fabric in a raw, unfinished state. Pronounced “gray-zh” goods.
Grid method: A system of dividing quilt blocks into smaller units to organize the design. Nine-Patch and Four-Patch are two commonly used grids.
Grid quilting: Quilting in vertical and horizontal lines across the quilt top. Also called crosshatching.
H
Half Square Triangles: A triangle that is created when you cut a square from one corner to opposite corner (45-degree angle). Straight of grain is on the short, outer sides of the triangle.
Hand appliqué: Using needle and thread to hand-sew fabric pieces onto a fabric foundation.
Hand ironing tool: A piece of hardwood that can be used to “press” open a seam.
Hand piecing: Using needle and thread to hand-sew seams while making a quilt top.
Hand quilting thread: Thread used to quilt the three layers together by hand. This thread is generally not be used in a sewing machine as it is very thick.
Hand quilting: Series of running stitches made through all layers of a quilt with needle and thread.)
Hand: A term used to describe the feel and texture of a fabric. “This fabric has a nice hand to it.”
Hand-piecing templates: Pattern shapes used to trace and cut patches for hand-piecing projects. The pattern shapes do not include seam allowances.
Hanging sleeve: A piece of fabric sewn to the back of a quilt. The fabric holds a rod so a quilt can be hung for display.
Hawaiian appliqué: Intricate, symmetrical appliqué designs. The pattern-making process is similar to that used to create paper snowflakes.
Herringbone stitch: A decorative embroidery stitch.
Homespun: A fabric woven with colored threads rather than printed. The color is inherent in the fabric and not applied at a later time.
I
Inset seam: See “Set-in seam.”
Intensity: The amount of pure color (saturated or brilliant) or muted color (grayed or subdued) present in a fabric.
Interfacing: The term for a variety of materials that are used on the wrong side (either fused or sewn in) of a fabric to give it more stability or loft or whatever the desired effect may be.
In-the-ditch quilting: The process of stitching just next to the seams on the quilt surface; it is often used to define blocks or shapes. Also called stitch-in-the-ditch quilting.
Ironing: The process of moving the iron while it has contact with the fabric, which can stretch and distort fabrics and seams. Ironing is distinctly different from pressing.
Isosceles triangle: A triangle with two equal sides whose sum is longer than the base.
Jelly roll: Fabric cut into 2 ½ inch strips and wound into a roll. Used for strip piecing and other various patterns, and also binding.
K
Kaleidoscope: A quilt block pattern in which fabric is pieced so that it resembles the variegated image seen through a kaleidoscope.
Knee-lift presser foot: A device attached to a sewing machine that allows the quilter to raise the machine presser foot with the knee, leaving the hands free to manipulate or hold the fabric.
Knife-edge self-binding: A binding alternative in which both the quilt top fabric and backing fabric are turned under to meet evenly at the edges of the quilt, leaving the quilt edges without an additional strip of binding fabric.
Knot on the needle: See “Quilter’s knot.”
L
Lap quilting: Hand quilting done while holding the quilt loosely in the lap without using a hoop.
Lattice: Same as sashing. A border that is created around blocks of a quilt, most often it is called lattice when your blocks of quilt are set on point (set in to look like a diamond as oppose to a square).
Layer cake: Layer cakes in quilting fabrics are stacks of 10 x 10-inch squares. Most designers bring out cakes of 42 pieces of fabric in contrasting and matching patterns. They are perfect for quilting as you will have a large selection of pre-cut squares to construct your quilt with.
Lazy daisy stitch: A decorative embroidery stitch often combined to create a flowerlike design.
Lengthwise grain: The threads running parallel to the selvage in a woven fabric.
Light box: A translucent surface that is lit from below and is used for tracing patterns onto paper or fabric. Available in crafts or photo-supply stores.
Lingerie thread: See “Bobbin-fill thread.”
Lockstitch: The stitch created by a sewing machine consisting of several very short stitches which serve the same purpose as a knot. Used to begin or end a row of stitching that will not be crossed by another seam.
LOF: Length of fabric, used in many quilting patterns.
Loft: The thickness of the batting.
Log cabin: A block assembled in a numerical sequence with strips, or “logs,” beginning at the center of the block and working in a clockwise direction around a square center.
Logs: Strips of fabric used to make a Log Cabin block.
Long-arm quilting machine: A quilting machine in which the quilt layers are held taut on a frame that allows the quilter to work on a large portion of the quilt at a time. The machine head moves freely, allowing the operator to use free-motion to quilt in all directions.
M
Machine appliqué: Attaching fabric motifs onto a fabric foundation with a sewing machine.
Machine piecing: Machine-sewing patchwork pieces together with 1⁄4″ seam allowances while making a quilt top.
Machine quilting: Series of stitches made through all layers of a quilt sandwich with a sewing machine.
Machine tension: The balancing forces exerted on the needle and bobbin threads by the sewing machine that affect the quality of its stitch. Tension may be affected by the machine parts, how the machine and bobbin are threaded, thread type, needle type, and fabric choice.
Marking tools: A variety of pens, pencils, and chalks that can be used to mark fabric pieces or a quilt top.
Matching point: Where the seam line joining two pieces begins or ends. Also known as a joining point.
Meandering stitch: An allover quilting pattern characterized by a series of large, loosely curved lines that usually do not cross over one another. Commonly used to cover an entire quilt surface without regard for block or border seams or edges.
Metallic needle: A needle designed with a larger eye for use with metallic thread.
Metallic thread: A synthetic thread with a shiny, metallic appearance.
Micro quilting: Quilting that is done as background fill, small and precise micro patterns. Micro quilting contrasts with your primary motifs and actually makes them stand out in a quilt. This technique adds visual interest, definition and texture.
Milliner’s needle: A long needle with a small round eye. Used for basting, gathering, and needle-turn appliqué. Also called a straw needle.
Mirror image: The reverse of an image or how it might appear if held up to a mirror.
Mitered borders: Border strips that meet in the corner at a 45° angle.
Mitered corners: A binding strip that is sewn and folded at a 45-degree angle at each corner, giving the appearance of a frame corner.
Mock-hand appliqué: A method of using clear, monofilament thread in the needle, cotton thread in the bobbin, and a blind hemstitch to make virtually invisible appliqué stitches by machine.
Monochromatic: Use of a single color, which may include tints and shades of that color, such as sky blue, royal blue, and navy.
Monofilament thread: A clear or smoke-colored thread made of polyester or nylon that is used for machine quilting and appliqué. Finished stitches are virtually invisible.
N
Napping: A process wherein the fabric surface is brushed, creating soft texture. This process is used to create flannel.
Needle threader: A device that helps in getting thread through the eye of a needle. Available for both hand and machine sewing.
Needle-punched: A process used in batting manufacture to entangle the fibers and stabilize the batting.
Needle-turn appliqué: An appliqué method in which the seam allowances are turned under with the needle tip just ahead of the section being stitched.
Negative space: Unoccupied area that surrounds another shape in a project. Negative space can be in a block or the area surrounding a block. It encompasses the areas and flows in, around and between quilt blocks.
Nine-Patch: A block or unit comprised of nine squares of fabric sewn together in three horizontal rows, often with alternating color placement. A common block configuration in quilting.
Notch: A small V shape clipped into a curved seam to reduce bulk and make seams lie flat when joined.
Notions: Small accessories used to aid in sewing and quilting: scissors, needles, thread, seam ripper, zippers, etc.
Novelty print: Fabric designed with a theme that may include holiday symbols, hobbies, or pet motifs. Also called a conversation print.
O
Off grain: When the lengthwise and crosswise grains of fabric don’t intersect at a perfect right angle.
Oilcloth: A woven, natural-fiber cloth (usually cotton duck/canvas) treated with an oil coating, making it relatively waterproof. Modern versions of this fabric are generally vinyl-coated cloth and are sometimes offered with a napped, flannel backing.
On Point: A block that is placed at a 45-degree angle on the quilt top.
Outline quilting: Quilting done 1⁄4″ from a seam line or an edge of an appliqué shape.
Overprinted: Fabric that is first dyed and then printed.
P
Paper foundation: A thin piece of paper with a drawn, printed, or stitched pattern that becomes the base for a quilt block when fabric is sewn directly onto it.
Partial seams: A two-step process of seaming to avoid set-in seams.
Patchwork: The art of sewing small pieces of fabric together to make a larger fabric or design. It is then usually quilted.
Perle cotton thread: A soft, yarn like cotton thread used for quilting, decorative stitching, or embellishment. Available in a variety of thicknesses.
Photo transfer: Technique for transferring photo images onto fabric for use in a quilt top.
Pieced border: Blocks or pieced units sewn together to make a single border unit that is then sewn to the quilt center.
Piecing: Process where fabric pieces are sewn together to form a block, garment or quilt.
Pillow tuck: The portion of a quilt that is tucked under the pillow(s).
Pin-baste: Process of basting together quilt layers using pins (most often safety pins).
Pinking blade or shears: Rotary-cutter blade or scissors with edges that cut a zigzag pattern in fabric.
Piping: See “Covered cording.”
Pivot: The process of leaving the needle in the fabric and turning the fabric when machine-piecing or machine-quilting.
Ply: A single strand of fiber. Several plies are twisted together to create a thread.
Polychromatic combination: A multicolor or scrappy mix.
Pounce: A chalk bag that can be patted over a stencil to transfer a pattern to fabric. Also called stamping powder.
Prairie points: Folded fabric triangles used as a quilt border or embellishment.
Preshrinking: Washing and drying of fabric by the quilter or manufacturer to remove finishes and shrink fabric before it is cut and sewn.
Presser foot: The removable machine accessory that holds fabric in place against the machine bed and accommodates the needle. A variety of presser feet styles are available for most machines.
Pressing: An iron is used to press a seam after stitching. You do not move the iron around, as that would cause stretching or distortion of the seam. Instead, set the iron onto the seam, lift and set again. Repeat until seam is pressed.
Primary colors: Pure colors-red, yellow, and blue-that combine to create all other colors on the color wheel.
Puckered seams: Seams with uneven or pulled spots. Can be caused by pushing or pulling the fabric through the sewing machine, having unbalanced thread tension, or pulling the thread too taut when hand-sewing.
Q
Quarter inch foot: Presser foot that has a guide to achieve a ¼ inch seam.
Quarter-square triangle: The 90° triangle formed when a square is cut diagonally twice in an X.
Quilt center: The quilt top before borders are added.
Quilt challenge: Many people making a quilt project with predetermined rules/criteria; a friendly competition.
Quilt frame: Can be a small quilt hoop or a large floor frame that holds the 3 layers of a quilt (top, batting, and backing) as it is hand quilted.
Quilt hoop: Two circles that hold the quilt layers together during the quilting process. One of the circles has an adjustment to fit over layers.
Quilt label: A patch or an area on the back of the quilt. Generally, the quilt label will have a date, recipient name and name of its maker. Perhaps even a little about the quilt.
Quilt sandwich: The three layers of a quilt: the quilt top, the quilt batting, the quilt backing.
Quilt sleeve: A strip of fabric that is applied to a quilt to enable hanging. A rod is often slipped through the sleeve.
Quilt top: The front of a quilt prior to layering and quilting. It can be pieced, appliquéd, or a single piece of fabric.
Quilt-as-you-go: Process where each block or section is layered (top, batting, backing) and quilted separately. Each separately quilted block or section can then be assembled into a larger quilt top.
Quilter’s knot: A knot used frequently in quilting in which thread is wrapped around the needle, then the needle is pulled through the wraps to create a knot. Also known as knot on the needle.
Quilting bar: A machine attachment used as a guide for channel or grid quilting.
Quilting distance: The space between quilting stitches. Batting manufacturers recommend different quilting distances for their products.
Quilting stencils: Quilting patterns with open areas through which a design is transferred onto a quilt top. May be purchased or made from sturdy, reusable template plastic.
Quilting templates: Shapes that are traced around to mark a quilt top for quilting. May be purchased or made from sturdy, reusable template material.
Quilting: The process of sewing the three quilt layers together, using stitches in decorative patterns as motifs, or in utilitarian patterns, such as straight lines with bigger stitches. Quilting is generally done by hand or machine.
R
Raw edge: An unfinished fabric edge. Sometimes used as a decorative element on quilt tops.
Rayon thread: A synthetic thread used for embroidery, embellishment, and sometimes quilting, but not piecing.
Reducing lens: A device that allows quilters to view fabric and projects as if they were several feet away. Distance may be valuable in determining design qualities.
Redwork: The name given to the embroidery technique where pictures are “drawn” with a series of joined stitches. Preferred stitches are usually backstitch or stem stitch, and the picture is embroidered in a single red color. (It can also be stitched in black or blue for variation.)
Relief: A raised surface, created in quilting by stuffing or filling an area, then quilting around it, as done for trapunto.
Repeat: Repetitions of a pattern or design in a fabric, or repetition of a quilting design or motif.
Reproduction fabrics: Recreations of fabrics from different time periods, such as the Civil War era or the 1930s.
Resiliency: The ability of a batting to resist creasing and regain its loft.
Reverse appliqué: An appliqué method in which the foundation fabric is on top of the appliqué fabric. The foundation is cut away to reveal the appliqué fabric underneath.
Right side: The “front” side of the fabric; usually the distinctly printed side of the fabric.
Right triangle: A triangle with one 90° angle.
Rock the needle: The process of bringing the needle back to the surface of all the quilt layers by using a rocking motion. Also called a rock-and-roll motion.
Rocker quilting stitch: Stitch used when hand quilting when you gently rock needle down through quilt and then back up in a running stitch.
Rotary Cutter: Cutting tool for quilting has a very sharp round blade. Must be used on a cutting mat and preferably with a quilting ruler.
Rotary mat: Cutting surface that is self-healing. Used with fabric and rotary cutters.
Rotary rulers: Rulers made from Plexiglas type material. They have a raised edge to guide rotary cutters along the edge.
Row-by-row setting: A quilt layout in which a different type of block comprises each row.
Running stitch: A style of stitch where the needle goes in and out of fabric in a continual motion.
S
Sampler quilt: A quilt in which each block is a different pattern.
Sandpaper circles: Circles made of sandpaper with adhesive on one side. Place adhesive side to bottom side of rotary rulers to prevent slippage.
Sandpaper: Typically used in woodworking and crafts. The fine-grit type can be used in quilting to hold fabric while marking to prevent distortion.
Sashiko: A type of Japanese embroidery traditionally using a thick white thread on layered indigo-color fabric to create geometric patterns.
Sashing squares: Squares used to sew sashing together. See Cornerstones.
Sashing: Strips of fabric sewn around or between blocks of a quilt top. These strips are generally joined together by cornerstone blocks or sashing squares. See Lattice.
Satin stitch: A compact zigzag stitch often used around appliqué pieces to enclose raw edges and attach the appliqués to a foundation fabric.
Scale: The size of a print in relationship to other fabrics.
Scalloped border: A border with multiple curves around the quilt’s outer edges.
Scrap quilts: Quilts that are made from various fabrics, often scraps from other projects or clothing. There are many patterns for this style of quilt, or you just start sewing them together and cut them into blocks.
Screen-printing: The process of applying designs to a fabric surface in separate steps.
Scrim: A term used in batting where a thin layer of polyester is added to the cotton to be needle punched into, this gives stability to your batting so it won’t break apart within your quilt. Scrim adds poly to your batting so it will no longer be 100% cotton.
Seam allowance: Distance between the fabric raw edge and the seam line. Typically, 1⁄4″ in hand and machine piecing.
Seam line: The straight or curved line on which the stitches should be formed.
Seam ripper: A sharp, curved-tip tool used to lift and break thread when removing a seam.
Seam: The line where two pieces of fabric are joined together by sewing them with thread.
Secondary colors: Colors created by combining equal parts of two primary colors-orange, violet, and green.
Seed beads: small, round beads used for embellishment.
Self-binding: Using backing fabric as binding, rather than attaching a separate binding strip.
Self-healing mat: See “Cutting mat.”
Selvage: Manufactured finished edge of fabric that prevents fraying before it gets to consumer. This is where you can find the name of the fabric line, company and colors that went into the fabric.
Serging: A method of looped threads over the raw edge of the fabric to finish the edge to prevent fraying. This is a Fun way to finish wall hangings.
Serpentine stitch: A wavy-line stitch sometimes used in quilting.
Set: How blocks are arranged in a quilt top.
Set-in seam: The type of seam used when a continuous straight seam is not an option. Separate steps are necessary to sew a piece into an angled opening between other pieces that have already been joined. Also called inset seam.
Setting a seam: The first pressing of the seam as it comes from the sewing machine to lock threads together, smooth out puckers, and even out minor thread tension differences before pressing the seam open or to one side.
Setting squares: Solid, pieced, or appliquéd squares placed between the focal-point quilt blocks to set off a design.
Setting triangles: Triangles used to fill out a design when blocks are set on point. Also called filler triangles.
Setting: Arrangement of blocks and various fabrics in a quilt. A straight setting is when blocks are placed in vertical and horizontal grid like design. Diagonal is when a block is set on point, resembling a diamond.
Shade: Black added to a color or hue creates a shade of that color; also refers to slight variations in a color
Shaft: The body of the needle that extends below the shank.
Shank: The top part of the needle that is held by the machine.
Sharps: Sets of extra sharp sewing needles for hand piecing or applique. Many use this for bindings as well.
Shrinkage: The amount of area a fabric or quilt loses after being washed, dried, or quilted.
Signature block: Quilt block with a blank area where a signature has been added with permanent ink pen or embroidery.
Silk pins: Thin-shaft pins with sharp points ease insertion into fabric and make tiny holes in delicate fabrics.
Single-block setting: A quilt created primarily from a single block shape, such as Tumbling Blocks or Grandmother’s Flower Garden.
Single-fold binding: A single-thickness fabric strip used to enclose quilt edges. Most commonly used for miniature quilts or quilts that will not be handled frequently.
Sizing: Product used to add body or stability to fabric, making it easier to handle.
Slip stitches: Small hand stitches used to secure binding to quilt backing.
Spacer border: Plain border sewn between a quilt center and an outer pieced border.
Split complement: A color grouping utilizing a primary, secondary, or tertiary color and the colors on each side of its complement (yellow with red-violet and blue-violet, for example).
Spool pin: The spindle that holds thread on the top of the sewing machine.
Spray starch or spray sizing: Liquid starch or sizing that can be sprayed over fabric to stabilize it before cutting.
Squaring a block: Measuring and, if necessary, trimming a block to ensure that it is the correct size.
Squaring fabric: Straightening one edge of the fabric prior to rotary cutting.
Squaring up a quilt: Straightening the edges of a quilt prior to sewing on the binding.
Stab stitching: Process where the needle is pushed (stabbed) to back side of quilt sandwich with one hand and returned to top side with the other hand, pushing needle from back to front.
Stabilizer: A product used beneath an appliqué foundation to eliminate puckers and pulling on the fabric while machine-stitching. Stabilizers are often tear-away or water-soluble for easy removal after stitching is complete.
Stained-glass quilt: A quilt style with pieces outlined by black bias tape that simulates the leading in stained-glass windows.
Stamping powder: See “Pounce.”
Star stitch: A decorative embroidery stitch.
Stash: Fabrics that have been accumulated for projects, or because you really liked it, or because you have a fabric addiction.
Stay stitch: Pre-sewing along the edge of a curve to help prevent the stretching along the “bias” when assembling a garment together. Often used on the curves of sleeves for stability during garment construction.
Stem stitch: An embroidery stitch frequently used to outline objects.
Stencils: Designs that are cut into a template. Stencils are used for marking quilts during quilting process.
Stippling: An allover quilting pattern characterized by a series of randomly curved lines that do not cross. Stippling is used to fill in background areas, which allows motifs to be more prominent. Also called allover meandering.
Stitch length: The number of stitches per inch. On a sewing machine, stitch length is often in millimeters.
Stitch width: A term generally applied to machine satin or zigzag stitching where the stitch width can be adjusted.
Stitching sequence: A designated order in which appliqué pieces should be stitched to the foundation fabric. Normally notated on appliqué patterns or pieces by a number.
Stitch-in-the-Ditch: A quilting term used to describe the method of stitching along existing seams in a patchwork piece or quilt top in order to quilt it together with the batting and backing.
Straight cut borders: Top, bottom and side borders that meet at a horizontal seam. Sew sides on first then top and bottom.
Straight grain: See “Lengthwise grain.”
Straight grain: The grain of the fabric that runs lengthwise or crosswise through the fabric. This is the most stable, less stretch.
Straight set: A quilt top setting with blocks aligned side by side in straight, even rows without sashing.
Straightedge: A ruler or other rigid surface that can be placed on template material or fabric to position a cutting tool or draw a line.
Straight-set border: A border that has been added first to the top and bottom of the quilt, then to the side edges, or vice versa.
Straight-stitch throat plate: A sewing machine throat plate with a small round hole for the needle to pass through. This allows less area for the sewing machine to take in or “swallow” the fabric as it is being stitched.
Straw needle: See “Milliner’s needle.”
String piecing: Sewing multiple strips of fabric to a foundation piece for use in a block.
Strip piecing: A process for accurately and quickly joining multiple strips, then cutting them into units or subunits for blocks. Also known as the strip method.
Swallow the fabric: At the beginning of a seam, the fabric edge is sometimes pushed into the throat plate by the needle and it appears that the machine has “swallowed” the fabric.
Symmetry: When one-half of an image or block is the mirror image of the opposite half.
Synthetic threads: Threads made from polyester, rayon, and nylon.
T
Tack stitch: A hand stitch used to secure appliqué pieces to a foundation.
Take-up lever: The sewing machine part that holds thread and pulls it up as the stitch is being made.
Tapestry needle: A needle with an oval eye that accommodates thick thread and creates a hole in the fabric big enough for thick or coarse fibers to pass through.
Temperature: A relative characteristic that denotes the warmth or coolness of a color.
Template plastic: Easy to cut, translucent material available at quilt shops and crafts supply stores. Designs can be traced onto its surface with a marking tool to make templates, pattern pieces, or quilting stencils.
Template: A pattern made from paper, cardboard, plastic, acrylic, or other sturdy material used to cut pieces for patchwork or appliqué.
Tension dial: A sewing machine component that allows for adjustment of the upper thread tension, important to achieving a balanced stitch.
Tension discs: Sewing machine parts that hold the thread and keep the tension appropriate for the stitch being sewn.
Tension: The amount of “pinching” done to your thread as it flows through your sewing machine. Thicker fabrics need a higher tension (a harder pinch so the thread doesn’t flow out too quickly), and thinner fabrics need less tension (a lesser pinch to let the thread out easily to prevent puckering).
Tertiary colors: Colors that are combinations of primary colors (red, blue, yellow) and secondary colors (green, orange, violet)-red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green, yellow-green, and yellow-orange.
Tessellating designs: When a single shape is repeated on a quilt top and covers the surface without holes or overlap.
Tetrad: A four-color combination of colors equidistant on the color wheel.
Thimble: A device to protect finger pads from needle pricks. Can be made of metal, leather, plastic, or rubber.
Thread count: The number of threads woven into a fabric. A higher number designates a more tightly woven fabric.
Thread finishes: Mechanical or chemical processes performed during thread manufacture to enhance the thread’s ability to perform under certain sewing conditions.
Thread-basting: Basting quilt layers together using a needle and thread and extra-long stitches that will be removed after the quilting is complete.
Throat plate: The removable plate on the machine bed that covers the bobbin and has an opening for the feed dogs and needle. Throat plates can be changed depending on the type of project.
Tied quilt: Technique where a quilt is layered with backing, batting, and top. Generally, it is laid out on a large table and periodically tied and knotted with pearl cotton or yarn to hold it together instead of quilting it. Generally high loft batting is used with this technique.
Tint: White added to a color or hue creates a tint of that color.
Tone: A color’s intensity-its degree of lightness or darkness.
Tone-on-tone: Fabric that appears solid from a distance but has subtle areas of light and dark.
Top stitch: The process of stitching on the exterior side of a project to finish seams or folds to keep them in place. Usually paired with a longer stitch length which looks more professional and can make it easier to go in a straight line. It can also can be known as Edge Stitching if it is done near a fold of fabric.
Tracing paper: A thin, translucent paper used for copying patterns.
Trapunto: A method of adding raised texture to quilts by stuffing design areas. Trapunto often is used in stems, leaves, and other motifs.
Traveling (with the needle): Hand-quilting technique of moving from one area to another without knotting the thread and starting again.
Triad: Any three colors equally spaced on the color wheel, one of which usually takes precedence in a color scheme (yellow-orange, blue-green, and red-violet, for example).
Triangle-square: The square unit created when two 90° triangles are sewn together on the diagonal.
True bias: Intersects the lengthwise grain and crosswise grain at a 45º angle.
Tufting: See “Tying.”
Tying: Taking a stitch through all three layers of the quilt and knotting it on the quilt surface. Tying creates a loftier quilt. Also called tufting.
U
UFO: A term used to refer to an unfinished object or project. Most quilter have many projects on the table at any given time.
Unbalanced borders: Borders of different widths resulting in an asymmetrical look.
Unit: A combination of two or more pieces of fabric sewn together that form part of a block.
Universal needle: A sewing machine needle type with a point and eye suited for multiple sewing and quilting applications.
Utility stitch: See “Big stitch.”
V
V clip: A notch taken out of a seam to reduce bulk.
Variegated thread: Thread in which the color changes throughout the strand.
Vertical set: A style of quilt top in which the blocks are set on point in vertical rows.
W
Wadding: Batting or wadding is the middle layer of the quilt, adding to the warmth and loft of the after product.
Walking foot: A sewing machine presser foot with grippers on the bottom that act in tandem with the machine’s feed dogs to evenly feed multiple layers of fabric and batting beneath the foot. Effective for machine quilting. Also called an even-feed foot.
Watercolor quilt: Quilt identified by multiple squares of print fabrics positioned so each color blends into the next, creating a watercolor effect. Also called color-wash quilt.
Water-soluble: Threads, stabilizers, or marks that dissolve when wet.
Whipstitches: Small hand stitches used to join two finished edges, such as in English paper piecing.
Whole cloth quilts: Name given to three single pieces of fabric sandwiched and sewn together in the quilting process. The design is in the quilting.
WOF: Width of fabric. You will find this abbreviation in many quilting patterns.
Wrong Side: The “back” side of the fabric; usually the opposite side of a distinctly printed fabric.
Y
Yo-yos: Three-dimensional gathered fabric circles that may be sewn into quilt tops or used for decorative embellishments.
Z
Zigzag set: A style of quilt top in which the blocks are set on point in vertical rows that are slightly offset.
Zigzag stitch: A side-to-side stitch that can be used for machine appliqué. It can be shortened and very closely spaced to create a satin stitch.
References
Editor. (n.d.). Glossary of Quilting Terms. Retrieved from National Quilters Circle: https://www.nationalquilterscircle.com/article/glossary-of-quilting-terms/
Magazine, A. P. (n.d.). Complete List of Common Terms. Retrieved from All People Quilt: www.allpeoplequilt.com